HID bulbs deteriorate and loose performance over time and should be replaced every few years. Won't be as good as building your own but will be a big step up from halogen headlights. 2002 Ford Focus SVT, 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac, 2013 Ford Escape. Depending whether they are on the CANBUS bulb minder system or not, you might get a bulb out warning which can be fixed if it occurs, but LED replacement bulbs should work fine. They will have poor performance and can be blinding to other drivers. LED bulbs shouldn't be be bothered at all by this. Most or all are going to be crap or at least only slightly better than OEM, and don't buy the claimed "LED" headlights since they are just halogen projectors with LED bulbs plugged in. Look into Morimoto D2S projectors for HID's and Morimoto MLED projectors for LED's.Īs for buying a pre built set, there are only halogen aftermarket lights available for pre-facelift, and as far as I know, none for post-facelift. HID projectors will give you the best performance but some of the highest quality LED units are catching up. If you want performance, best is to build your own with quality HID or LED projectors. If your just going for looks, hit up your favorite search engine and start looking around. Only premium high-quality products are offered at BRI Source.What are you trying to accomplish and how much work/money are you willing to do/spend? View our available HID Kits and available LED Kits. LED may not function correctly and is not recommended. **Newer Chevy and GM vehicles (2014+) may require an HID product in the low-beam application. *2015+ Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, & Ram vehicles require a custom Mopar harness (as well as Cadillac) Chevrolet/GMC It is not recommended to use an LED or HID bulb in a HIGH-BEAM DRL, as the brightness may be too high, and can glare to oncoming traffic. Depending on the HID or LED product, some may dim, whereas others will run at full brightness. Most DRLs run on PWM (pulsing signal), and the decoder will smooth out the signal allowing the bulb to perform correctly. DRL (Daytime Running Lights)įor vehicles that utilize a DRL, it is REQUIRED to use a decoder add-on for both LED products, as well as HID CANBUS kits. Ballasts require a higher than normal amount of power upon startup, and some vehicle's are unable to provide ample wattage thus requiring either a relay harness or canbus module. When running a standalone kit (no relay or canbus module), the HID product is relying on the vehicle's stock wiring to power up the bulbs. When installing HID, it is always best to select a relay harness regardless to prevent limitations from the stock wiring, and add a CANBUS style ballast/kit depending on the model (see below). Some vehicles even require driving for a few minutes (please do this safely during the daytime and not on public roads). Please check by removing the original bulb in question, start the vehicle, wait at least 30 seconds, and check to see if there is an error on the dashboard. This is a general list, and your vehicle's electrical system may vary. Double-Check First (bulb-out error messages) If the bulbs do not power on, try this first. Some vehicles have reversed polarity, meaning it will be required to re-pin or re-wire by flipping the wires either on the HID or LED system or the vehicle's system. This also helps to prolong the life of the product, much like a surge protector or battery backup does for a home computer. They can also prevent flickering due to the CANBUS or Decoder module, which is essentially a capacitor (type of power supply) which takes the uneven power from the vehicle and helps to create a more linear signal going into the new components. HID CANBUS version kits and LED decoder add-ons are designed to prevent warning signals/errors from appearing on the vehicle's dashboard after replacing the incandescent/halogen bulbs. Below is a list of Vehicles that typically require the CANBUS (for HID kits) or Decoder option (for LED kits).
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